Anglers are still a bit reluctant to use fluorocarbon hooklengths, with issues over its breaking strain and toughness, and whether fish can see it or not under the water, putting some of them off the material.
Popular for years with saltwater and fly anglers, the coarse sector has slowly cottoned on to it as well. I have to say I’m a real convert to the stuff, but only in certain situations. For silverfish work on the pole and feeder or F1 fishing on winter snake lakes, I’m positive it gets me better results than normal mono lines.
Fluoro is also very tough, and I know a lot of anglers who use it in Ireland, where rocks and zebra mussels can cut through mono hooklengths. On the issue of breaking strain, I’ve never had a problem with fluoro breaking on a fish. If anything, I think fluoro gets stronger the more you use it.
At first glance it’s very stiff, which is why I won’t use it for hooklengths when fishing for carp on the feeder, but for a lot of my pole work, when the weather turns cold, it’s become a must.
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When not to use it!
I wouldn’t use fluoro when carp fishing on the Method or Hybrid feeder. A stiff fluoro hooklength can pull the bait away from the loose offerings, so it takes longer to get a bite. A mono hooklength is far better here.
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When fluoro is best
Fluoro works for silverfish and F1s on the pole or feeder. With it being so stiff, you get few tangles with hooklengths of 50cm upwards. It’s also supposed to be harder for the fish to see underwater.
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Strength with age
Fluorocarbon gets stronger once it’s been in the water for a while, so you can use lower diameters than you would with mono. On the pole I’d use 0.10mm, with 0.12mm on the feeder, much as I would with mono.
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Clear-water edge
I’m convinced that fluorovarbon gives you an edge in clear water as a 4ins-6ins hooklength. In coloured water, I’d use mono, as the advantages of fluorocarbon are lost once visibility under the surface becomes minimal.
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